Provident Engineering: How To Replace The Turbo On A 2020 Ford F250 6.4 Diesel
Nice. After I cleaned it up, I decided to enlist precautions. Since most of the bolts were oil covered and a little loose when I removed them, I cleaned every bolt and their corresponding holes. Sometimes the head of the cable gets stuck in its little cradle in the shifter and you have to jiggle it to get it out. Remember your shifter must be in the smallest cog, if you look though the plug hole you should see the light at the end of the tunnel which gives you something to aim for. Set your shifter plug in a safe place so you don’t lose it. I’m pretty sure this is a no-no because of the stresses it would place on the crank bearings. HDPE plastic and pounded the seals into place. If it is really crimped shut you can use a sharp pin to open up the plastic sleeve before flaring (or push the cable through the other side to open up the sleeve).
The water reservoir should be emptied each day after use. I first plugged all of the ports with old socks so water and other non-engine-friendly fluids and particles could not get in. Still a lot of fluids in there. I still need to remove the remaining pistons, the crank, the cam shaft, the flex plate, and the freeze plugs. NOTE: Most people remove the flex plate/flywheel BEFORE they put it on the engine stand. You will see other people have complained about this issue too. This is real hard to photograph by yourself, but, with the right hand, as you see in the pic above, put your index finger up & inside, through the mag loading area. On the end of the mag tube, you see a little O-Ring. 1 cylinder walls are scored a little bit by the broken ring. The ring itself is kind of smooshed on the outside edge. I then applied gasket shellac to the flanges, installed a paper gasket, applied gasket shellac to the outside of the paper gasket, slid on the drum brake assembly. After installing the drum brake assembly, gasket shellac was applied to the axle bearing retainers and a paper gasket was placed onto it and the gaskets outside face also had shellac applied.
The axle assembly was then slid into the axle housing and 4 new retaining nuts were torqued down on each brake assembly though the hole in the axle hub. It was definitely looking better but needed some adornments before I could let it go to the ball such as new brake lines and spruced-up emergency brake cables. Notice that there are two cables still attaching the plastic panel we just removed to the door frame. I also had to replace a broken window motor, it was relatively easy to do, but I still haven’t figured out how to reset the window, if you’ve ever done this before you know what I am talking about. Well, it’s still rusty but it looks like the grease is gone. Putting a dab of Vaseline or thick grease into the grub screw socket will help keep it clear of the glass residue. 1. With your Allen bit adapter in your socket wrench, start undoing the shift lever bolt.
However, as I discovered on my first shift lever change, you don’t need to touch anything but the one nut on the side closest to where the rod connects to the shift lever. I really blew it with the pictures on this one but I posted what I did get so here it is. This can be a little confusing because the combination of the rod, the joints, and the ways you can orient everything in 3 dimensions means you can move this thing all around, and you might have even forgotten to which way to orient things to get it back on the bike. Although, the block plate did get in the way sometimes. This thing basically works opposite the way a compression tester works only instead of reading air that is compressed by the engine, it reads air that compresses within the cylinder of an engine from an air compressor source.