Hoopty Rides: 08/01/2020 – 09/01/2020
Obviously, I believe components should be available at a granular enough level to be able to make repairs at reasonable prices. Replacement components available that are fix what fails, not more. Obviously, replacement O-Rings are available, if you mess it up. Since these are brake end caps on a derailleur cable they are a little too big so I extra-secure them with a final two pinches with the side cutters. In the end I used my handy Permatex nickel anti-seize, putting just small dabs at various points on the surface. Once the spacer was set in place, I added a very small bit of anti-seize to the surface where the wheel will contact the spacer. 4. Turn off the car, and then use a small flathead screwdriver to release the plastic latch holding each of these electronic cables into the control box unit. The more modern and safer method is to use a tool with a reverse thread on it. Before removing the wheel, I got out my trusty hanging pins to make wheel removal and placement much easier and safer! Here’s the exterior door lock with the locking rod attached ( the bottom is where I detached the yellow plastic before I pulled the rod out ).
Clean any plastic eye shield with running water, as rubbing it will scratch the surface. Cutting your housing might make the inner plastic sleeve crimp shut. Ensure there is water in the reservoir before starting any grinding, but do not over fill as the excess water could get into the motor. Undo Starter motor and leave connected to power cables, but place away from engine block. The glass grit is relatively heavy and will become solid and block your drains. I have seen some of these shotguns that, after neglect, had HEAVY carbon build up in this area. What size of hoist did you use as seen in your pics? I heard some of the cam sprocket bolts are single use only – could you tell me which bolts I have to change and which I dont for all the cam sprockets. Smaller grits take smaller chips off the edges, and so are less obvious.
The coarser the grit is, the larger the chips will be taken off the edge surfaces. This may not be possible on all grinders, but does reduce the effort of cleaning the grit from the bottom of the reservoir. You may want to choose the black option for the spacers so the silver doesn’t clash! I mentioned earlier that the order I placed included silver spacers and bolts. I really should have ordered black powder-coat, as the OEM stock bolts are black, and I also intend to switch to black wheels in the near future. I then put the hanger pins in place and we are ready to remount the wheel! Although the ad didn’t state what was included in the purchase price, a set of extended wheel bolts was included in the package. Anyways, I ordered a set of wheel spacers from Adaptec Speedware (board sponsor) via Amazon at a great price. In the end, the PlastiDip coating will probably have to be replaced, but for now it works perfectly and is a lot cheaper than purchasing a new set of bolts!
The Front of the engine is now completely free / clear. With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off center slot in the same position either up and level or down and level. The accumulated glass grit should be cleaned out with scraper or paper towel and disposed of in the waste, not down a sink. I used a grease, oil, adhesive and goo remover called Lift-Off to get rid of the tar bits and oil spots, before getting out the detailing products to shine everything-up! The air tube from the low side turbo can be pulled out. Slide that off the end of the tube. It looks like it’s a major endeavor removing the oil pan, so I think I will wait on doing this repair myself, I may end up taking it to the dealer, I don’t look forward to getting this repaired because I know it’s going to be a very expensive job. It is possible that you may be using too coarse a grit on the grinder bit/head. Special tools should be available – I am not anti-progress or anti-engineering and I recognize smart engineering of new solutions may need new, proprietary tools.